Fold Hem with Detail

Seams H110B / H110T / H110C

Details are important, and we all know it; but since I’ve been analyzing sewing seams for the last years, my passion for well-made constructions and smart finishes keeps growing and growing.

“Knowledge is Power”

If you don’t know the seams options available in the industry, you won’t know how to include them to your designs.

In this new series of articles called “Cool Easy Seams” we’ll learn how to make a difference by adding simple cool sewing touches to your designs.

Let’s start with three simple variations of the so widely used Double Fold Hem (H110), also known as “Over-Welt Hem”.

It is to add a trimming (band, tape or live) just to the edge of the inner fold:

1. H110B: Double Fold Hem with Band
2. H110T: Double Fold Hem with Tape
3. H110C: Double Fold Hem with Piping

Double Fold Hem with Band

Seams H110B

Option 1

It works well either on a straight or a curved edge. For example, bottoms of blouses, shirts, coats, etc.

Double Fold Hem with Tape

Seams H110T

Option 2

It works better on straight or slightly curved edges. For example, bottoms of skirts, sleeves, and pants.

Double Fold Hem with Piping

Seams H110C

Option 3

The cord reinforces the structure of the garment/product.
It’s widely used on products made of medium and heavy-weight fabrics such as coats, and accessories (bags, shoes, etc.).

Woven vs. Knit

These seams are mostly used on woven fabrics.

But, can I use them on knit fabrics?

Yes, you can use them on knitted fabrics. In that case, I suggest you use a stretchable trimming, for instance, lingerie elastic. Or use a trimming
made of light-weight fabric. Also, take into account that any of these three seams will make the hem more resistant, less elastic. They all work better on medium and heavy-weight fabrics with low elongation recovery (less than 50% – sewing direction). If the selected fabric is light-weight and a high elongation recovery (more than 50%), I recommend you to make/ask for a proper swatch (I mean, with the right fabric and trim) to be sure the seam fits well.

Main Uses

• bottoms: sleeves, tops, pants, skirts, dresses, jackets
• pocket openings
• narrow plackets
• bags, shoes, and accessories

Exposed Seam (reversible)

Even though the trim detail is on the inside of the garment, some fabrics allow us to make the hem towards the outer face, therefore the trim will be visible.

Considerations

Resistance and elasticity: for any of the three options, the hem will be a bit stronger, and less flexible than the basic seam H110.

Thickness: for most garments, it is recommendable to use a trim with a similar fabric weight (or a bit lighter) than the main fabric. If the trim is heavier than the fabric, the hem could be too thick.

Care: the trim must have the same care techniques than the fabric: shrinking, colourfast dye, ironing, washing, etc.

H110C : Keep in mind there are different thickness measurements for cords: 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 3mm, 5mm, 8mm, 10mm. Bags and shoes might need a 3 to 5mm cord (or even more). For most garments, the thickness of the cord is between 1mm to 3mm, depending on the weight of the main fabric (I mean, the garment fabric): the heavier is the fabric, the thicker is the cord.

Some Topstitching Alternatives

Any questions or comments? Please, leave your questions or comment below, or send me an email at belu@abcseams.com.
If you liked this article, take a look at the book 101 Sewing Seams: a reference guide for sewing seams.
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AUTHOR

Belu Chi

Technical Designer

When I buy clothing, I first look them at the inside, and then the outside. My friends tell me I look like a grandma, but that
is the way to know if the garment was made with love and care, or not. The finishes speak, it doesn’t matter if they are visible or not.o.

This article is published in collaboration with:

ABC Seams

SEAMPEDIA