Types of Seams:Properties
The sewing culture is almost like science…
“What we see and what we know about sewing seams is just an introduction to an extensive subject.”
Diving into the textile industry there are so many types of seams, it is quite hard to keep track of all of them!. However, the most important aspects to consider when we select seams are the same: their properties.
That is why today, we’ll be talking about the main properties of 17 groups of seams.
SEAMS PROPERTIES
Sewing seams properties depends on 3 attributes:
- structure of the seam
- fabric
- type of stitch and topstitch
1. CONSTRUCTION SEAMS
Felled Seam |
- Resistant, flexible and durable.
- Suitable for almost any fabric (woven and knit) and either on straight or curved seams.
- Inexpensive.
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| Bound Seam
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- Strong and resistant.
- Neat finish on the inside. The binding adds a decorative touch.
- It works better on medium-weight fabrics.
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| French Seam
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- Strong and durable.
- Clean and neat finishing on the inside, giving a high-end touch to the garment.
- It works better on light-weight fabrics.
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| Welt Seam
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- One of the strongest construction seams.
- Clean finish on both sides.
- It works better on straight seams.
- Poor elongation recovery.
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| Lapped Seam
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- Excellent flexibility and elongation recovery.
- Suitable on straight and curved seams.
- Good option to avoid thickness when using heavy-weight fabrics.
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| Open Seam
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- Very flexible.
- Good option to avoid thickness.
- It suits to a wide variety of fabrics.
- Good elongation recovery.
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| Sandwich Seam
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- Excellent resistance.
- Clean finish on both sides.
- Reversible.
- It suits to a wide variety of fabrics.
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2. HEMS AND FINISHES
| Fold Hem
|
- The most popular hem on wovens.
- Good resistance. Durable and strong.
- Neat finishing on the inside.
Suitable for almost any fabric.
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| Bound Hem
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- Very strong and resistant.
- The binding prevents edge ravelling, stabilises the hem and adds a decorative touch.
- Good choice to add weight.
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| Faced Hem
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- Durable and flexible.
- Neat finishing on the inside.
- It works better on wovens.
- A piece of interfacing might be needed.
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| Binded Edge
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- Durable and resistant.
- The binding reinforces the edge, protecting it from fraying, and it adds a decorative touch.
- Suitable for almost any fabric.
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| Exposed Band
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- Good elongation recovery, especially if the band is made of knit fabric or cut on the bias.
- The band can be used as a tunnel to add an elastic band.
- It suits to a wide variety of fabrics.
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| Unhemmed Edge
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- Low-cost finishing.
- Flexible.
- Versatile: suitable for any fabric and either on straight or curved edges.
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| Sandwich Hem
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- Flexible and durable.
- Neat finish on the inside.
Excellent versatility.
- It prevents edge ravelling.
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3. DETAILS
| Pleat
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- Its main purpose is to give extra volume to the clothing or product.
- Flexible and versatile.
- Reversible.
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| Box Pleat
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- It is a type of pleat, formed by two identical pleats that meet together.
- It adds fullness to a garment.
- Reversible.
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| Patch
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- It gives more resistance and strength to the garment, or piece of fabric.
- Durable and flexible.
- Suitable for almost any fabric.
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So, no more confusions to choose sewing constructions, finishes, and details!
Author of this article
Belu Chi | Technical Designer
My mum taught me to sew when I was 15.
I used to make skirts in every single colour, andt my girlfriends loved them! I later studied Industrial Design, specialized in clothing… and that’s where it all began.
Post in ABC Seams
The Dress is a style of Making Patterns Fly Making Patterns Fly
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