Types of Seams Properties

20 febrero 2019

Types of Seams:Properties

The sewing culture is almost like science…

“What we see and what we know about sewing seams is just an introduction to an extensive subject.”

Diving into the textile industry there are so many types of seams, it is quite hard to keep track of all of them!. However, the most important aspects to consider when we select seams are the same: their properties.

That is why today, we’ll be talking about the main properties of 17 groups of seams.

SEAMS PROPERTIES

Sewing seams properties depends on 3 attributes:

structure of the seam
fabric
type of stitch and topstitch

1. CONSTRUCTION SEAMS

Felled Seam	Resistant, flexible and durable. Suitable for almost any fabric (woven and knit) and either on straight or curved seams. Inexpensive.
Bound Seam	Strong and resistant. Neat finish on the inside. The binding adds a decorative touch. It works better on medium-weight fabrics.
French Seam	Strong and durable. Clean and neat finishing on the inside, giving a high-end touch to the garment. It works better on light-weight fabrics.
Welt Seam	One of the strongest construction seams. Clean finish on both sides. It works better on straight seams. Poor elongation recovery.
Lapped Seam	Excellent flexibility and elongation recovery. Suitable on straight and curved seams. Good option to avoid thickness when using heavy-weight fabrics.
Open Seam	Very flexible. Good option to avoid thickness. It suits to a wide variety of fabrics. Good elongation recovery.
Sandwich Seam	Excellent resistance. Clean finish on both sides. Reversible. It suits to a wide variety of fabrics.

2. HEMS AND FINISHES

Fold Hem	The most popular hem on wovens. Good resistance. Durable and strong. Neat finishing on the inside. Suitable for almost any fabric.
Bound Hem	Very strong and resistant. The binding prevents edge ravelling, stabilises the hem and adds a decorative touch. Good choice to add weight.
Faced Hem	Durable and flexible. Neat finishing on the inside. It works better on wovens. A piece of interfacing might be needed.
Binded Edge	Durable and resistant. The binding reinforces the edge, protecting it from fraying, and it adds a decorative touch. Suitable for almost any fabric.
Exposed Band	Good elongation recovery, especially if the band is made of knit fabric or cut on the bias. The band can be used as a tunnel to add an elastic band. It suits to a wide variety of fabrics.
Unhemmed Edge	Low-cost finishing. Flexible. Versatile: suitable for any fabric and either on straight or curved edges.
Sandwich Hem	Flexible and durable. Neat finish on the inside. Excellent versatility. It prevents edge ravelling.

3. DETAILS

Pleat

Its main purpose is to give extra volume to the clothing or product.
Flexible and versatile.
Reversible.

Box Pleat

It is a type of pleat, formed by two identical pleats that meet together.
It adds fullness to a garment.
Reversible.

Patch

It gives more resistance and strength to the garment, or piece of fabric.
Durable and flexible.
Suitable for almost any fabric.

So, no more confusions to choose sewing constructions, finishes, and details!

Author of this article

Belu Chi | Technical Designer
My mum taught me to sew when I was 15.
I used to make skirts in every single colour, andt my girlfriends loved them! I later studied Industrial Design, specialized in clothing… and that’s where it all began.