Types of Seams: Uses

20 marzo 2019

Types of Seams: Uses

I was just wondering… do you like sewing?

Personally, I don’t like it… I Love It!!!

But, you don’t need to be a passionate sewer to appreciate the importance of selecting the appropriate sewing seams, agree?

“To create something exceptional, get focus on details”

We’ve already talked about how seams are classified and their main properties. So now, to finish this series called “Types of Seams”, it’s time to discuss the common uses of all those seams.

Sewing Seams

COMMON USES

CONSTRUCTION SEAMS

Felled Seam	It is appropriated for just about any location on the garment such as shoulders and side seams. Lined garments and no-exposed seams. Accessories: bags, footwear, home decor.
Bound Seam	High-quality garments. Neckline seam of t-shirts and polos. Unlined jackets, coats and outwear in general. Reversible garments.
French Seam	Commonly used on woven fabrics such as sheer, lace and most light-weight fabrics. Side seams and sleeve seams of blouses and shirts. High-end garments.
Welt Seam	Widely used on clothing made of denim fabric such as jeans, shirts, skirts, and jackets. Shirts: shoulder and yoke seams. Trousers: crotch and side seams.
Lapped Seam	These seams work well on fabrics that do not flare such as leather, suede, vinyl, and lace. Irregular shaped edges and curved seams. Bags and accessories.
Open Seam	They work better on woven fabrics of medium and heavy-weight. Lined garments such as jackets and coats. Accessories, for instance bags and shoes.
Sandwich Seam	Yoke and shoulder seams of shirts and blouses. Yoke of skirts and trousers/pants. Neckline seam with collar. Cuffs.

HEMS AND FINISHES

Fold Hem	Suitable on hems of most types of clothing , especially those made of woven fabrics. Narrow plackets and slits. Pockets opening.
Bound Hem	High-quality garments. Ideal for curved hems. Necklines. Hems of reversible garments.
Faced Hem	Armholes and necklines of sleeveless tops. Plackets of shirts, blouses, and jackets. Bottoms of tops, dresses, and skirts. Hems cut on the bias.
Binded Edge	Neckline and cuffs (or armholes on sleeveless tops). Narrow plackets. It works great on curved and bias-cut edges. Bags, accessories, footwear, and home decor.
Exposed Band	Necklines of t-shirts, tops, and dresses. Ribbed necklines. Armhole edges of sleeveless tops and dresses. Gathered hems with elastic band.
Unhemmed Edge	Casual clothing. Bottom of full skirts made in light-weight fabrics. Fur industry. Bags and accessories.
Sandwich Hem	Hems of lined garments. Collars, lapel edges, and hoods. Reversible garments. Bags and accessories.

DETAILS

Pleat

Commonly used on women’s clothing: waist, hip, and bust area.
Cuff seam of shirts and blouses.
Accessories such as hats and bags.

Box Pleat

Shirts: backside, just below the yoke.
Patch pockets.
Skirts and trousers/pants.
Bags and accessories.

Patch

Patch pockets: jeans, trousers, shirts, etc.
Elbow patches.
Bags and accessories.
Applique.

Now you’re ready to get back to your fashion designs (or sewing projects) with the knowledge and confidence that you need to do your best!

Belu Chi | Technical Designer
My mum taught me to sew when I was 15.
I used to make skirts in every single colour, andt my girlfriends loved them! I later studied Industrial Design, specialized in clothing… and that’s where it all began.